Pool paving and coping: choosing pavers that are safe, cool and built to last

Short answer: good pool paving needs three things. A paver with a slip rating suited to wet bare feet, a colour that does not get too hot to walk on in a South Australian summer, and a properly compacted base so the surround does not sink into the soft fill around the pool. The coping, the row of pavers that caps the pool edge, ties it together and takes the most wear, so it is worth getting right.

We pave pool surrounds around new and existing pools in Gawler, the Barossa and across Adelaide. This guide covers the decisions to make before a pool job: coping options, slip ratings, heat, materials and the base underneath.

Pool coping vs pool paving: what is the difference?

Coping is the edge of the pool: the pavers that sit on top of the pool wall or shell lip and overhang the water slightly. Coping pavers usually have a rounded front edge (bullnose) or a thicker dropped face so the edge looks solid and is comfortable to sit on.

Pool paving is everything beyond the coping: the surround, the path to the gate, the area for sun lounges and the link back to the house or alfresco. The coping and surround can be the same paver for a clean, continuous look, or a contrasting band. One pool surround in our gallery uses dark slate pavers with a gold sandstone border, which frames the water and breaks up the dark paving.

Slip ratings: the first thing to check

Outdoor pavers in Australia are tested for slip resistance and given a rating. The common one is the pendulum test, which gives a result from P0 to P5. Beaumont Tiles explains that P0 to P3 is generally considered suitable for indoor flooring, while P4 or P5 has a lower slip risk and can be used outside or around a pool (Beaumont Tiles, Slip resistance explained).

A polished or glazed finish that looks great in the showroom can be slippery when wet, so ask for the slip rating in writing for the exact paver and finish you are choosing, including the coping piece.

Heat: choosing a colour you can walk on barefoot

Summers in Gawler and the Barossa are hot, and a pool surround is walked on with bare feet. Darker pavers absorb more heat than lighter ones, so a charcoal or dark slate surround will be hotter than a light grey or sandstone one on the same afternoon.

That does not rule out darker pavers. If you love the look, there are ways to manage it:

• Use a lighter coping band around the water, where people sit and climb out.
• Put shade over the main sitting area, such as a shade sail or a roofed pergola.
• Keep a hose or tap handy for a quick cool-down on hot days.

Popular pool paver materials

• Natural stone such as travertine, granite, bluestone and sandstone. Each has its own look, feel and heat behaviour. Some natural stones need sealing, especially around salt water pools, so ask the supplier how the stone handles salt.
• Marble-look and slate-look pavers. These give a stone look with a consistent size and finish. The fibreglass pool wrap in our gallery uses marble-look pavers that run clean to the pool edge and are scribed by hand around the natural boulders.
• Concrete pavers. A wide range of colours and textures at a lower cost than most natural stone. Check the slip rating of the particular finish.

Whatever you choose, buy enough for the coping, the surround and a few spares. Batches vary in colour, and spares make a future repair much easier to match.

The base matters more around a pool

The ground right next to a newly installed pool is usually backfill: soil or crushed rock pushed back in around the shell after it went in. If that fill is not compacted properly before the paving goes down, the surround settles over the following months and pavers start to drop, crack or rock. We cover why pavers sink in our guide to sunken pavers and relaying.

On a pool job we:

1. Check the levels of the coping, the house, the gate and any steps, so everything meets cleanly.
2. Dig out and compact the base, paying most attention to the fill around the pool.
3. Bed the coping firmly so it is locked to the pool edge, then lay the surround on a screeded bed.
4. Lay the paving to fall so water clears off and does not sit on the surface or run back toward the house.
5. Cut pavers neatly around skimmer boxes, pool equipment, fence posts and garden edges.

Drainage near the house follows the same rules as any paving next to a slab. Our guide to paving fall and drainage next to your house explains them.

Do not forget the pool fence

Pool safety barriers in South Australia must meet the swimming pool safety rules, and a barrier's height is measured from the finished ground. If new paving raises the ground along the fence line, the fence can end up effectively lower than it was. Steps, raised garden beds and pots near the fence can also give a child a foothold. Before paving goes in next to a pool fence, check that the barrier will still comply. Your council can help, and PlanSA publishes the pool safety standard for older pools.

Pool paving ideas that work well

• A contrasting coping band to frame the water and keep the edge cooler.
• One paver from the house to the pool so the alfresco and pool area read as one space.
• A wider paved area at one end for lounges and a table, rather than a thin strip all the way round.
• Garden beds or turf along the fence line to soften it, kept clear of the climbable zone.
• Natural boulders or a low retaining wall where the yard slopes, with the pavers scribed to fit.

Getting a quote

Every pool surround is quoted on site, because the size, shape, access and the condition of what is there now all change the job. See our pool paving and pool surrounds service, our paving in Gawler page, or send us photos for a free quote.